To dismiss two quickly: a Flake is not 99mm long – it predates decimalisation, for one thing – and for most of its history it cost considerably less than 99p. Numerous explanations have been posited for it over the years. The origin of the name "99" remains opaque, "lost in the mists of time" in Cadbury's inventive phrasing. Since we aren't using them, this seems an ideal time to remind you about the squalid horror show that was Kraft's takeover of this once great British firm, and also to mention in passing my long-held conviction that Cadbury's cooking chocolate tastes of ashtray and cat poo.īut the 99 Flake is a happier thing. By 1930, Cadbury's was selling half-length Flake "99s" specifically for prodding into Mr Whippy, or his equivalent.Ĭadbury's press office sent me some pictures of old Flake packaging which they hoped might accompany this article, adding that we could use the images "providing that there are no negative or derogatory comments made towards Cadbury or its associated brands". People seem to have spotted its affinity with ice-cream almost immediately.
The Flake emerged around 1920 when a clever worker at Cadbury's Bournville factory noticed that chocolate overflowing its moulds fell and set in appealing ripples. That shattering finger gives depth and body to the scummy, foamy ice-cream and desiccated cone. The hero, of course, is the chocolate.Ī 99 is nothing without a Flake. I find the cone a papery and insipid thing, prone to sogginess: the 99 cone has nothing on a Cornetto. The tiny bubbles make the ice-cream smoother and lighter, and it's served at -4C instead of -15C. A young chemistry graduate named Margaret Roberts was reportedly on the team that developed this profitable way of bulking out a product – her later dealings with milk are notorious. The ice-cream of today's 99s is "soft serve", and ideally around 40% air.
The gentle jingle of Greensleeves from a garishly converted van, a beefy-armed vendor, crisply anaemic cone, turdy curly ice-cream and chocolate spike: it's all a happy reminder of sandy summers and shrieky, milk-smeared faces. It's welded to our youth like chicken pox and bullying. I doubt there's a single British child that hasn't lapped at the sweet spumy lather of a 99 Flake. Indeed I think it did for most of my childhood, in what seemed an unusually sensible way for grown-ups to have done things, and perhaps also a nifty reminder of how much to cadge off them to get hold of one. Seal and freeze until firm, for at least 2 hours, before serving.Īdapted from " The Ice Creamery Cookbook: Recipes for Frozen Treats, Toppings, Mix-Ins and More," by Shelly Kaldunski (Weldon Owen, 2014).When I was growing up, I always assumed that the 99 Flake was so called because it cost 99p. Place parchment or waxed paper directly on the surface. Transfer the ice cream to a freezer-safe container. Add the grated chocolate and crushed malted milk balls, if using, during the last minute of churning. Pour the chilled custard into the ice cream maker churn according to the manufacturer’s directions. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 4 hours and up to 3 days. Remove from the ice bath stir in the food coloring, if using. Pour the custard through a fine-mesh strainer into the smaller bowl and stir occasionally until cool. Meanwhile, fill a large mixing bowl with ice and water seat a smaller bowl inside it. Use a wooden spoon to stir for 1 to 2 minutes, until the mixture becomes a custard thick enough to coat the back of the spoon. Pour that blended mixture into the saucepan, whisking constantly, over medium heat. Whisk about 1 cup of the cream mixture into the egg mixture until smooth. Remove the bowl from the saucepan discard the heated water. Combine the egg yolks, sugar and salt in a heatproof bowl that will fit over the top of the saucepan whisk for about 2 minutes or until that mixture has lightened and about doubled in volume. Meanwhile, heat a few inches of water in a saucepan over medium heat. Combine the cream, milk and mint leaves in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until the mixture starts to bubble at the edges, about 5 minutes.